This page provides information on the Sync-in-SCART board, originally designed by Alex a.k.a. ArcadeTV. This board can be installed anywhere an LM1881 sync
stripper is needed, but I provide detailed instructions on installing it into a SCART head.
Please note that the LM1881 outputs TTL-level sync. If you're going into a device that's expecting 75 ohm
video-level sync (such as the framemeister), then you'll need to add a 470 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor to the output line. There's more info at the bottom of the
page and for more information on sync, please see the main sync page. Also, if you'd like information on how to make your own sync stripper instead
of buying this one, please see this page for full instructions.
SNYC-IN-SCART Board, US Seller
SNYC-IN-SCART Board, UK
- The Sync-in-SCART board
- Basic tools, such as pliers, tweezers, etc.
- Soldering iron / solder
- Thin wire
- Basic soldering skills.
- One 470 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor (DEFINTELY recommended in SCART
This board can be
installed anywhere you need to "strip" csync from either composite video or luma. For installation inside a
console, simply solder (from right to left as shown above) ground, composite video (or luma), 5v power and
finally csync output. If mounting inside a console, I suggest either using heat shrink tubing to cover the
contacts and ensure nothing can touch it, causing a short.
- First, start by
adding solder to the 4 pads on the sync-in-SCART board. Simply touch the tip of your soldering iron
to each pad, then touch the other side of the pad with the solder and hold until the solder spreads across:
- Next, open the SCART connector and find the row of pins we'll be working with; We'll only be using
the longer "top" side. Also, if your SCART cable came with hot glue covering the pins, carefully remove it
- Now it's time to add wires to the SCART connector.
- First, de-solder the composite video wire that's in pin 20 (the right-most pin on the
connector below) and solder a short wire in its place.
- After that, use a multimeter to double check for voltage and solder a wire to that pin as well; 5v power
should be coming from pin 8 (4th from the left in the pic below).
- Finally, use a multimeter to find any ground pin and solder a short wire to it. This connector had a
separate ground pin that was located just in front of the other pins, making it very easy.
- Now add either double-sided tape or glue to the back of the Sync-in-SCART board and affix it to
the inside of the SCART connector:
- Next solder all the wires to their corresponding places on the board.
- CS-OUT goes to pin 20 on the SCART connector, the same pin you removed the original
composite video wire.
- 5v should connect to the wire you added to pin 8.
- V-IN should be connector to the wire that was originally connected to SCART pin 20.
- GND should be connected to any ground point.
- Finally, carefully re-assemble the SCART connector and make sure no wires get pinched. I found
that there was plenty of space inside, but if you're concerned about the Sync-in-SCART board touching
anything, feel free to cover it with a piece of non-conductive tape.
That's it! A pretty simple installation that's extremely useful when your setup requires csync,
but your system only outputs composite-video-as-sync.
75 Ohm csync output
Please note that the most common use of this "Sync-in-SCART" circuit is with classic game
consoles. As a result, I strongly recommend soldering a 470 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor between the output pad and the sync pin on the SCART
head, which will attenuate the signal from TTL-level voltage to 75ohm "video" level voltage. It's as
simple as soldering the resistor to the pin, then connecting a wire from the output pad to the
resistor! If you're not sure if you need it, just add it...it's literally less then a dollar and a
really easy install.
If you've arrived at this page as part of the
RGB Guide, please move along to: what method
you'd like to use to display RGB. If not, feel free to head to the main
sync stripper page, or check out the homepage for everything else we have to