This page is here just to save me a bit of time, as I get asked the same questions very frequently. The majority
of emails I receive are from people who just skimmed the mod pages and didn't read through all the way. If you have
a question on where to buy something, what the pinout is, etc, please re-read the page, as the answer is most
Here they are, in no particular order:
Q: Why RGB?
A: Because it's the best possible signal you can get from the "classic" video game systems. The
RGB Guide explains everything you need to get started.
Q: Will you mod my console for me?
A: RetroRGB isn't a modding service, but luckily, other people are! I'll link to trusted
modders on each console's individual page.
Q: How come your mod is different than another one I've seen? A: A lot of times there are two ways to do the same thing and mine is just the way I've always
done it. Either way, every mod on my site was tested by me personally, multiple times. That being said, if you know
of a better way to do something, I'd always love to hear about it.
Q: Why do you mostly link to RGB cables fromRetro Console Accessories, orRetro Gaming Cables? Are there other choices?
A: I link to those stores, because their stock and customer service is reliable and the cables have
generally been good quality. Some people on the forums reported issues, but generally they're good quality
(RCA posted a great response). If you're really concerned about quality, you can contact
them directly to request extra shielding on the cables, or try to hunt down an original (expensive) RGB cable
from the original console manufacturer. You could also try making your own cables, or add a dsub connector to your console and buy high quality VGA or VGA/BNC cables.
Q: Your guides suggest using 75 ohm resistors in the mods involving the THS7314 RGB amp, but some
people say it makes the output too bright.
A: I've found that the output is slightly brighter than stock consoles, however it's not a huge
difference. It's strongly recommended that you only use 75 Ohm on the output side, but you can add resistors
to the input side as well. For more information, please see my THS7314 page.
Q: Why do some of your mods show pictures of hot glue?
A: I use small dabs of hot glue to keep wires away from places they could get damaged. I find
small amounts of glue, non-conductive tape and double-sided tape to be very helpful in
making mods neater and to keep wires safe. That being said, both glue and tape should be used sparingly.
Q: How come you don't have a forum, so people can discuss your mods? A: Unfortunately, forums require constant administration. I've met a lot of really awesome people
on forums, but there's always a few trolls that ruin it for everyone else and I'd rather not waste my time trying
to deal with people like that. I don't say anything in a forum that I wouldn't say to someone's face, but most
people don't follow that rule. Also, some amazing forums already exist that have great people helping out.
Q: How come your eBay feedback is so low? A: RetroRGB isn't a "modding service", it's just a site that provides information. The
only things sold through the store are extra consoles, spare parts, etc. As a result, I don't end up listing
a lot of items. Also, eBay's fees are getting ridiculously high, so I haven't been as interested in selling
things lately; I'd have to charge a really high price to compensate for eBay's fees and I'm not sure that's fair to
Q: For your comparison shots, why did you take pictures, instead of screenshots or video
captures? A: My goal was to present things to you the exact way my eyes saw them during testing. Playing a
video of a recorded RGB signal via YouTube on your laptop is really not a good representation of what the console
is actually outputting, as your monitor will greatly effect how the picture looks. You need to see it on an RGB
monitor, with scanlines in order to really grasp the differences.
All the pictures on my site (other than stock console pics) were taken by me personally, with a DSLR, using a
prime lens, tri-pod and the same manual settings. Also, the camera was always at the same height, in the same
place, the same distance away. Finally, all comparison shots for each system were taken at the same time. Said
differently, I didn't take "SNES shot #1" on a Saturday morning and then "SNES picture #2" a week later on a Friday
night...every time a picture comparison was taken, it was one right after the other to make sure the lighting was
identical. As a result, the pictures reflect exactly what my eyes saw on my Sony PVM RGB monitor.
Q: Why did you use pictures, instead of video?
A: I have the proper still camera equipment, but don't own any video equipment, or the editing software
required to present a side-by-side comparison.
Q: The site is called RetroRGB, yet it includes Dreamcast, Wii and PS3. What do you consider the
cutoff point for a "retro" system and why? A: At the moment, the cutoff I've set for myself is HD systems, where "HD" is referring
to 720p and up. I'll eventually aim for every console, but I'm sticking to the "classics" for now.